One well-documented table, and one we will not repeat
The Samsung-era Modernist induction cooktop, such as the DTI36M977BB, publishes nine confirmed information codes straight from its own user manual: C0, C1, C2, F0, F1, F2, A2, UP, and d0. A set of “Legacy cooktop F-codes” circulates on repair-blog sites, but no dedicated Dacor cooktop service document backs them up — the wording matches the wall oven’s Classic F0/F1/F2 table almost exactly, a strong sign it was relabeled rather than independently sourced, so we do not publish it as fact.
What the verified codes report
C0 and C1 flag the top sensor open or shorted, C2 flags the IGBT sensor, F0 through F2 mark a communication failure between the main board, a sub-board, or the EEPROM, A2 points at the cooling fan, UP means the incoming voltage sits outside 208 to 240 volts, and d0 simply means a key was held down too long.
What to check first
A d0 or a ghost-touch reading often clears once the glass is dry and the correct cookware is in place; a persistent A2 or UP is closer to the electrical supply or the fan than to anything the cook did.
When to call
A repeating code, a dead zone, or a cracked surface needs an experienced technician with the matching genuine OEM or trusted-supplier part, since a gas cooktop with no code display at all can show the identical symptom for an unrelated reason. Open the cooktop error codes page or the error-codes library, then book cooktop repair.